Top-rope Climbing Activity Group Policy

None of the following guidelines are intended to conflict with the rules of any commercial or other nonprofit climbing facility or group. These ratings are for Hoofer Outing Club use only and may not be recognized outside of this organization.

B1

This is the first rating that a new climber will achieve. A climber who will receive the B1 rating must:

Show competence and confidence in basic, safe belay technique.
Be able to tie and recognize a figure-8 follow-through knot.
Visually inspect the climber's harness to make sure that the climber has tied the figure-8 knot correctly through their harness. A B1 will also check to see that the climber's harness is being worn properly with the waist belt doubled-back.
Be familiar with belay language and communication between climber and belayer:

PRIOR TO CLIMBING

Climber: “On belay?”
Belayer: “Belay on.”
Climber: “Climbing.”
Belayer: “Climb on.”

DURING CLIMBING

Climber: “Tension.” Climber is requesting that belayer tighten the rope and take up slack.
Climber: “Slack.” Climber asks belayer to pay out slack.
Climber: “Falling!” Climber warns belayer of impending fall. This is helpful to avoid surprises, but the belayer must always be alert to unexpected falls.

Demonstrate to at least one climbing leader that they can belay safely.
Be able to belay climbers without back-up belay.

Restrictions

A new climber cannot receive the B1 on their first trip. This helps climbers realize that they must integrate belaying into their climbing skills and remember it without hesitation to get the rating.
Climbers may receive a B1 rating on their second trip if they demonstrate competence and confidence at belaying. This is not guaranteed, however, since a climber may need more practice on subsequent trips.
One climbing leader's endorsement is required; the leader signs the membership card with B1 on the rating line.
Belay can be taught by Leaders and B2s. Climbing leaders can appoint B1s to teach belay on individual trips as the leader sees fit. This right is reserved by each leader and is good for that trip only.
Climbers who are inactive for more than a year lose their B1 rating. Climbers can be re-rated through the above-mentioned guidelines.

Gym Leader

A Gym Leader is an optional rating that a climber may obtain. The Gym Leader is considered a club leader for indoor climbing gym trips only. The gym attended must have policies that restrict the instruction of belay technique to gym staff only.

A climber who will receive the Gym Leader rating must:

Be a current member of the Outing Club and hold a B1 rating in good standing
Demonstrate, to the climbing leaders, the ability to instruct proper fitting of the club’s harnesses. This includes explaining what it means and why it is important to “double back” and to tie or clip into the “two hard points”. (Annotation: based on experience, we know that gym staff do not with any regularity check a climber’s harnesses for proper fitting. It is not until a climber attends a belay class at the gym that a staff member has direct contact with a climber and therefore the opportunity to instruct the climber in proper fitting of the harness. It is foreseeable that a beginner climber could climb at the gym without any of the gym’s staff providing instruction. It is therefore imperative that beginner climbers know how to don & doff their harnesses. Since, the club is not allowed to instruct at a typical indoor gym, the Gym Leader is expected to instruct beginners in proper fitting of the club’s harnesses prior to arrival at the gym.)
Demonstrate, to climbing leaders, an acceptable level of leadership skills and overall responsibility.

A Gym Leader can:

Lead trips to indoor gyms that restrict the instruction of belay technique to gym staff only.
Have access (keys and locker combination) to the club’s gear locker for the purpose of checking out and returning the following gear: harnesses, shoes and ATCs with appropriate locking carabineers.

Restrictions:

Two climbing leader endorsements are required. These leaders should present the endorsement at a Climbing Safety Board meeting for brief discussion. Both leaders should sign the card with Gym Leader written on the rating line. (Annotation: This requirement insures that the Gym Leader candidate is known to the climbing leaders)
Gym Leader leaders may access the gear cabinet and check out only the following gear: harnesses, shoes and ATCs with appropriate locking carabineers.
A Gym Leader cannot certify B1 ratings by signing cards. Only climbing leaders can sign cards.
A Gym Leader may have his/her rating revoked if at least two certified climbing leaders sign a written statement clearly explaining the reasons for revocation. The signed statement will then be presented to the Outing Club executive board for their review.
Gym Leaders who are inactive for more than one year lose their Gym Leader rating. Climbers can be re-rated through the above-mentioned guidelines.

B2

This is the second rating a climber will achieve. A B1 who wants to advance to B2 is subject to the following general expectations from the current climbing leaders:

Show leadership potential.
Express interest in climbing leadership.
Assist leaders on trips.

In order to get the B2 rating, a B1 shall be working on these skills and leadership criteria:

Learning the interest group rules.
Teaching belay to beginners.
Setting top rope anchors according to the interest group by-laws.
Ascending and descending ropes by means of jumar, prusick, and rapel.
Assisting on climbing trips by watching the group, advising beginners on safety issues and climbing etiquette, and participating in the sport in an environmentally-sound, low-impact manner.
Attending leadership training trips.
Attending Climbing Safety Board meetings.
Reading the climbing books (Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills, Climbing Anchors by John Long) and studying anchor principles. These books are recognized by the climbing leaders to be excellent resources in learning.

The B2 is considered a leadership practice rating. The B2 will continue honing the above skills. Additionally, B2s can:

Check out harnesses and ATCs for indoor climbing trips. The B2 will be responsible for returning the gear to the gear lockers.
Lead climbing trips under the supervision of a leader. This is highly recommended.

Restrictions

B2s can set top rope anchors, but the anchor must be checked over and approved by a leader.
B2s cannot certify B1 ratings by signing cards. Only climbing leaders can sign cards.
There is no time limit for which a B2 will stay at this level. Experienced climbers may advance quickly onto full leadership while others may take one or more climbing seasons to advance. This allows each climber to advance as his or her schedules and abilities permit.
Two climbing leaders' endorsements are required for the B2 rating. These leaders should present the endorsement at a Climbing Safety Board meeting for brief discussion. Both leaders should sign the card with B2 on the rating line.
A B2 may have his/her rating revoked if at least two certified climbing leaders sing a written statement clearly explaining the reasons for revocation. The signed statement will then be presented to the Outing Club executive board for their review.
Climbers who are inactive for more than a year lose their B2 rating. Climbers can be re-rated through the above-mentioned guidelines.

Once a B2 is well-versed in the skills at this level, two leaders may endorse the B2 for full climbing leadership. These leaders should present the endorsement at a Climbing Safety Board meeting for discussion. The interest group chair person will record this endorsement, but signatures on the membership card are not required.

FAST TRACK

The fast track system is designed to get experienced climbers through the system quickly so they can obtain leadership status. Climbers who join the club claiming to have advanced anchor skills must demonstrate these skills to the current leadership for discussion and approval. If the new member shows excellent top-rope anchor skills, it is recommended that the climber then lead a trip under supervision. Once the current leaders are satisfied with the new member's abilities, the endorsements can be made.

CLIMBING SAFETY BOARD

Meetings:

Recommended for once a month.

Membership:

Any club member who is interested in climbing policies may attend CSB meetings.

CSB Chair:

The Top-Roping Chair shall chair and run CSB meetings. The chair may appoint a proxy if the chair will be absent.

Voting Membership:

Current club climbing leaders and the chair are awarded one vote each.
The group should work towards consensus when making decisions. Should this fail, a simple majority vote will decide an issue. In the case of a tie, the chair decides.

Agenda:

Chair should forward an agenda to the climbing e-mail list before the meeting and ask for additional items.

Endorsements:

All B2 and Climbing Leader endorsements shall be discussed at CSB meetings.

Duties:

The CSB's duties are as follows:

Develop new climbing safety policies as needed.
Discuss B2 and Climbing Leader endorsements.
Share safety concerns and observations from previous trips.
Keep the pulse of the interest group.
Encourage advancing climbers to pursue leadership. This includes guiding potential leaders who may be weak in certain skill areas. Giving direct guidance can help that potential leader to focus on weaknesses and improve their skills.
Report any mishaps with gear, including damage and losses.
Record endorsements.

Rights

The CSB has the right to revoke a leadership rating. Only two voting members need to sign a written statement explaining the reasons for revocation (See details under B2 Restrictions).
The CSB cannot remove a chairperson. This action is governed by the Outing Club's general by-laws.

Appeals Process

If a climber is dissatisfied with the decisions of the CSB, it should be discussed openly in a meeting. If the climber and the CSB fail to reach an agreeable solution, the climber may take the matter to the Executive Board for consideration.

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Visually inspect the climber's harness to make sure that the climber has tied the figure-8 knot correctly through their harness. A B1 will also check to see that the climber's harness is being worn properly with the waist belt doubled-back. Be familiar with belay language and communication between climber and belayer: PRIOR TO CLIMBING Climber: “On belay?” Belayer: “Belay on.” Climber: “Climbing.” Belayer: “Climb on.” DURING CLIMBING Climber: “Tension.” Climber is requesting that belayer tighten the rope and take up slack. Climber: “Slack.” Climber asks belayer to pay out slack. Climber: “Falling!” Climber warns belayer of impending fall. This is helpful to avoid surprises, but the belayer must always be alert to unexpected falls. Demonstrate to at least one climbing leader that they can belay safely. Be able to belay climbers without back-up belay. Restrictions A new climber cannot receive the B1 on their first trip. This helps climbers realize that they must integrate belaying into their climbing skills and remember it without hesitation to get the rating. Climbers may receive a B1 rating on their second trip if they demonstrate competence and confidence at belaying. This is not guaranteed, however, since a climber may need more practice on subsequent trips. One climbing leader's endorsement is required; the leader signs the membership card with B1 on the rating line. Belay can be taught by Leaders and B2s. Climbing leaders can appoint B1s to teach belay on individual trips as the leader sees fit. This right is reserved by each leader and is good for that trip only. Climbers who are inactive for more than a year lose their B1 rating. Climbers can be re-rated through the above-mentioned guidelines. Gym Leader A Gym Leader is an optional rating that a climber may obtain. The Gym Leader is considered a club leader for indoor climbing gym trips only. The gym attended must have policies that restrict the instruction of belay technique to gym staff only. A climber who will receive the Gym Leader rating must: Be a current member of the Outing Club and hold a B1 rating in good standing Demonstrate, to the climbing leaders, the ability to instruct proper fitting of the club’s harnesses. This includes explaining what it means and why it is important to “double back” and to tie or clip into the “two hard points”. (Annotation: based on experience, we know that gym staff do not with any regularity check a climber’s harnesses for proper fitting. It is not until a climber attends a belay class at the gym that a staff member has direct contact with a climber and therefore the opportunity to instruct the climber in proper fitting of the harness. It is foreseeable that a beginner climber could climb at the gym without any of the gym’s staff providing instruction. It is therefore imperative that beginner climbers know how to don & doff their harnesses. Since, the club is not allowed to instruct at a typical indoor gym, the Gym Leader is expected to instruct beginners in proper fitting of the club’s harnesses prior to arrival at the gym.) Demonstrate, to climbing leaders, an acceptable level of leadership skills and overall responsibility. A Gym Leader can: Lead trips to indoor gyms that restrict the instruction of belay technique to gym staff only. Have access (keys and locker combination) to the club’s gear locker for the purpose of checking out and returning the following gear: harnesses, shoes and ATCs with appropriate locking carabineers. Restrictions: Two climbing leader endorsements are required. These leaders should present the endorsement at a Climbing Safety Board meeting for brief discussion. Both leaders should sign the card with Gym Leader written on the rating line. (Annotation: This requirement insures that the Gym Leader candidate is known to the climbing leaders) Gym Leader leaders may access the gear cabinet and check out only the following gear: harnesses, shoes and ATCs with appropriate locking carabineers. A Gym Leader cannot certify B1 ratings by signing cards. Only climbing leaders can sign cards. A Gym Leader may have his/her rating revoked if at least two certified climbing leaders sign a written statement clearly explaining the reasons for revocation. The signed statement will then be presented to the Outing Club executive board for their review. Gym Leaders who are inactive for more than one year lose their Gym Leader rating. Climbers can be re-rated through the above-mentioned guidelines. B2 This is the second rating a climber will achieve. A B1 who wants to advance to B2 is subject to the following general expectations from the current climbing leaders: Show leadership potential. Express interest in climbing leadership. Assist leaders on trips. In order to get the B2 rating, a B1 shall be working on these skills and leadership criteria: Learning the interest group rules. Teaching belay to beginners. Setting top rope anchors according to the interest group by-laws. Ascending and descending ropes by means of jumar, prusick, and rapel. Assisting on climbing trips by watching the group, advising beginners on safety issues and climbing etiquette, and participating in the sport in an environmentally-sound, low-impact manner. Attending leadership training trips. Attending Climbing Safety Board meetings. Reading the climbing books (Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills, Climbing Anchors by John Long) and studying anchor principles. These books are recognized by the climbing leaders to be excellent resources in learning. The B2 is considered a leadership practice rating. The B2 will continue honing the above skills. Additionally, B2s can: Check out harnesses and ATCs for indoor climbing trips. The B2 will be responsible for returning the gear to the gear lockers. Lead climbing trips under the supervision of a leader. This is highly recommended. Restrictions B2s can set top rope anchors, but the anchor must be checked over and approved by a leader. B2s cannot certify B1 ratings by signing cards. Only climbing leaders can sign cards. There is no time limit for which a B2 will stay at this level. Experienced climbers may advance quickly onto full leadership while others may take one or more climbing seasons to advance. This allows each climber to advance as his or her schedules and abilities permit. Two climbing leaders' endorsements are required for the B2 rating. These leaders should present the endorsement at a Climbing Safety Board meeting for brief discussion. Both leaders should sign the card with B2 on the rating line. A B2 may have his/her rating revoked if at least two certified climbing leaders sing a written statement clearly explaining the reasons for revocation. The signed statement will then be presented to the Outing Club executive board for their review. Climbers who are inactive for more than a year lose their B2 rating. Climbers can be re-rated through the above-mentioned guidelines. Once a B2 is well-versed in the skills at this level, two leaders may endorse the B2 for full climbing leadership. These leaders should present the endorsement at a Climbing Safety Board meeting for discussion. The interest group chair person will record this endorsement, but signatures on the membership card are not required. FAST TRACK The fast track system is designed to get experienced climbers through the system quickly so they can obtain leadership status. Climbers who join the club claiming to have advanced anchor skills must demonstrate these skills to the current leadership for discussion and approval. If the new member shows excellent top-rope anchor skills, it is recommended that the climber then lead a trip under supervision. Once the current leaders are satisfied with the new member's abilities, the endorsements can be made. CLIMBING SAFETY BOARD Meetings: Recommended for once a month. Membership: Any club member who is interested in climbing policies may attend CSB meetings. CSB Chair: The Top-Roping Chair shall chair and run CSB meetings. The chair may appoint a proxy if the chair will be absent. Voting Membership: Current club climbing leaders and the chair are awarded one vote each. The group should work towards consensus when making decisions. Should this fail, a simple majority vote will decide an issue. In the case of a tie, the chair decides. Agenda: Chair should forward an agenda to the climbing e-mail list before the meeting and ask for additional items. Endorsements: All B2 and Climbing Leader endorsements shall be discussed at CSB meetings. Duties: The CSB's duties are as follows: Develop new climbing safety policies as needed. Discuss B2 and Climbing Leader endorsements. Share safety concerns and observations from previous trips. Keep the pulse of the interest group. Encourage advancing climbers to pursue leadership. This includes guiding potential leaders who may be weak in certain skill areas. Giving direct guidance can help that potential leader to focus on weaknesses and improve their skills. Report any mishaps with gear, including damage and losses. Record endorsements. Rights The CSB has the right to revoke a leadership rating. Only two voting members need to sign a written statement explaining the reasons for revocation (See details under B2 Restrictions). The CSB cannot remove a chairperson. This action is governed by the Outing Club's general by-laws. Appeals Process If a climber is dissatisfied with the decisions of the CSB, it should be discussed openly in a meeting. If the climber and the CSB fail to reach an agreeable solution, the climber may take the matter to the Executive Board for consideration.
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